A Crocheted Dress Bodice for Sasha

As promised, here is the pattern for a crocheted dress bodice with a fabric skirt, sized to fit Sasha dolls. Sasha ranges in size from around 16 inches to 17 inches. The pattern may, or may not fit other similar sized dolls. It will not fit the 18" American Girls, who are not only taller, but much bigger around than Sasha dolls. Crochet is fairly stretchy and forgiving, but not that stretchy and forgiving! I will probably be working on an American Girl size later this year, for my granddaughter's McKenna. When and if I do, I'll post the directions for the AG size here.

The dresses pictured above are two of the finished dresses that were made as table favors for the Sasha Festival. As always, this pattern is posted for your personal enjoyment. You may share the link wherever you'd like, but please don't post the pattern anywhere without my express written permission. Thanks!

Crocheted Dress Yoke

 Charla McGuire Neal

© 2013

To fit a 16” to 17” Sasha doll

Materials:

Size 8 Hook  (1.5 mm)

#10 Crochet Cotton

About 30 inches of ¼ inch ribbon

Fabric to match crochet cotton (7 ½ inches by 28 inches)

3 very small buttons (about ¼ inch)

Chain 55

Row 1:  Dc in 3^rd ch from hook and in next 5 ch sts for back yoke, *(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc in next ch,) [corner shell made,] dc in next 13 chs for sleeve, repeat from * in next ch st for 2nd corner shell, dc in next 11 sts for yoke front, repeat from * in next ch st for 3rd corner shell,  dc in next 13 chs for second sleeve, repeat from * in next ch st for last corner shell, dc in last 6 chs for back yoke, ch 4, turn.

Row 2: Note: you will be working a double crochet in every other dc, with a ch 1 between them. (Fillet st)

Sk 1 dc, (ch 4 counts as first dc plus ch 1,) dc in 3^rd dc, *(ch 1 skip next dc, dc in next dc.) Repeat from * working to corner. When you reach the corner ch 2 space, you you should have a dc in 1^st dc of corner you worked in row 1.  You will ch 1, sk 2^nd dc of row 1 corner, then work corner shell in ch 2 space. Continue from *, as above, working to end, ch 3, turn.

Row 3: Work dc in each dc and ch 1 sp across back, work corner shell in corner ch 2 space, work in fillet st across sleeve, work corner shell in corner, work dc in each dc and ch 1 sp across front, work in fillet st across sleeve, corner shell in corner, work dc in each dc and ch1 sp across back, ch 3, turn.

Row 4 - 5: Continue as above, working dc st in every dc st for backs and front, fillet st in sleeve sections, corner shell in ch 2 of each corner shell.

Row 6: Work across back sts plus 1 dc in ch2 space of corner shell, ch 8, sk all sleeve sts, work 1 dc in ch 2 sp of front corner, work all dc sts across front, 1 dc in ch 2 sp of 2^nd front corner, ch 8, sk all sleeve sts, 1 dc in ch 2 sp of back corner, and every dc across back, ch 3, turn.

Row 7 & 8: Dc in each st all around, including under arm ch sts, ch 3, turn. At end of Row 8, ch 4, turn.

Row 9: Sk 1^st dc, trc in 2^nd st, *(ch 1, sk next dc, trc in 4^th dc,) repeat from * across row, ending with trc in top of turning ch, ch 1, turn. (You should have 43 trebles, including the ch 4 turning at the beginning of the row.)

Row 10: Sc in each trc, and each ch 1 space across row, ch 3, turn.

Row 11: 1dc in bottom of turning ch, sc over top of next trc, work 5dc shell over top of following trc, sc over top of next trc, and so on, continuing across row. Finish with 2 dc in top of turning ch, ch 1, DO NOT TURN…instead:

Work in sc, up side of left back to neck, ch 1 turn, and work back down as follows: Make 1 sc, ch 2, sk 2 sc, (ch 2 buttonhole made,) 8 sc, ch 2 buttonhole, 8 sc, ch 2 buttonhole, sc to end of row, ch 1, turn. Work sc in every st up back, (including 2 scs in the ch 2 buttonhole spaces,) to top. Ch 1 at corner, sc around neck, ch 1 at right neck edge, sc down back to bottom edge, ch 1, turn and work back up to neck edge. Break off and work in the ends.

Sleeves:

Note: You will be crocheting up and over the top of the sleeve, back across the underarm to the beginning, then working shells over the top of the sleeve to opposite side, where you will break off.

 Row 1: With right side facing you, attach thread to back corner of right sleeve, where the fillet crochets meet the underarm dc’s.  (This would be the side of the row where you worked dc’s to underarm, then did the 8 ch’s.) Sc in the side of the dc where the thread was attached, hdc in the side of the next row, ch 1, and work fillet st in each fillet st across sleeve. At bottom of row, hdc in side of dc row, sc in corner where sleeve meets underarm sc’s, then sc in each sc of underarm, join.

Row 2:  (Note: You will only work the upper sleeve fillet sts in this row, not the underarm sc sts.)

Ch 1, sc in top of sc, work 3 dc shell in top of hdc, sc in top of next dc, 3 dc shell in next dc, across row, end with sc in corner sc, between sleeve top and underarm, break off thread and work ends in.

Repeat with Left sleeve, attaching thread at front corner instead of back corner, and proceeding as before.

Finishing: Press bodice.

Serge sides and bottom of skirt. Fold about ¼ in. of skirt to wrong side, then gather top edge and pull up to fit bottom of bodice. I serged my skirt top for neatness and to hold the gathering in place, but you can finish it any way you prefer. Stitch skirt to bodice by machine or hand stitch with matching thread, aligning top of gathers just below the row of treble crochet beading for the ribbon. Sew back seam, press, and finish back edge of skirt. Fold up ¾ inch on bottom of skirt, press, and hem.

Sew three buttons to right back of bodice, matching position of buttonholes. Run ribbon through beading and tie in a bow at back.

Please remember, I am not a professional pattern designer, nor am I a professional typist. I am the only one who has tested this pattern so far. If you find a mistake or a typo, please feel free to contact me, and do let me know how the pattern worked out for you.

For those in the UK, please bear in mind that there is a difference in terminology between the US and the UK. As I recall, our single crochet is your double crochet, our double crochet is your treble crochet, and our treble crochet is your double treble crochet. Our half double crochet is, of course, your half treble.

Summer Play Set for Amelia Thimble

I've been working on some rather small crochet projects recently, for a very tiny ball jointed doll called Amelia Thimble. In case you aren't familiar with her, at a mere four inches tall, Amelia lives in a sewing box, has a button studded bed, a dog named Rags, and a new friend called Izzy. Created by Joe Petrollese, Amelia is available from the Wilde Imagination website.

I wanted to share the pattern for one of Amelia's little crocheted outfits with you. I warn you, crocheting in a decent scale for a doll this tiny requires fine thread, small steel hooks, and may cause some serious eye strain! Still, if you have the patience for it, it can be a little addictive! The basic set can be varied to make different outfits. Shorten the pantalets to make bloomers. Use a different stitch pattern for the top, or lengthen it for a dress. Have fun, and by all means, let me know what you've made!

Crocheted Summer Play Set

For Amelia Thimble

by Charla McGuire Neal

Copyright 2012

Size 30 Crochet Thread (I used DMC Cebelia)

Size 11 Steel crochet hook (1.1 mm)

Pantalets

For waistband, cut a piece of 1/8" elastic to just fit around Amelia's waist. Butt the ends together, or overlap just slightly, and stitch by hand, OR, if you can find one of the clear or pastel colored latex ponytail holders in the right size, they would be ideal. (Blaxx, Goody, and Vidal Sassoon all make them.) I've tried using them, but the size I've found either have to be knotted to fit, which is less than ideal, (the knot leaves a bump, and the extra bit of band folded against the main band is awkward to crochet over.) Doubling the band works, kind of. The band will go around Amelia's waist, but is a *very* snug fit, and makes the pantalets difficult to get over her feet and knees. That's why I've pretty much gone back to the 1/8" elastic for the ones I've been making.

Note: Every row of pantalets is worked in the same direction, from the outside, without turning when you start a new row.

Row 1: Work 26 sc over the elastic ring, join to first sc with a sl st, ch 1, do not turn.

Row 2: Sc in every sc around, join, ch 2 (26 sc, not counting beginning ch st)

Row 3: Dc in every sc around, join, ch 2.

Row 4 & 5: Same as above, but at end of row, ch 5.

Row 6: Skip 1st 13 sts, join ch to next st with sl st, ch 2. Working one leg at a time, DC in same st as ch 2, then in each of remaining 12 dc. Work one dc in each of the 5 ch sts dividing legs, join and ch 2

Row 7 & 8: Dc in each dc, join, ch 1

Row 9: Sc in next 2 sc, sk 1 st, sc in next st, repeat to end of row, join, ch 2

Row 10: Sc in next sc, (*ch 2, sc in next st,) Repeat from * to end of row.

Break off, and work in ends of thread. Join thread at back of bloomers, and work second leg same as the first.

Sleeveless A Line Top

Bodice: Ch 29

Row 1: Sc in 2^nd ch from hook & each ch across, 28 sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: Sc in 1^st 4 sts, ch 4, sk 6 sc, sc in next 8 sc, ch 4, sk 6 sc, sc in last 4 sc.

Row 3: Sc in each sc and each 4 ch sts across. (24 sc)

Row 4: Sc in each sc across, ch 2, turn.

Skirt:

Row 5: Skip first sc, dc in 2nd sc, ch 1, dc in same sc, (V stitch made,) sk 1 st, Work V st in next st. Continue across row, skipping one stitch and working a V stitch in the next, working 1 dc in the last st, ch 2, turn.

Row 6-8: Work 1 V stitch in the center of each v st across, working 1 dc in top of turning ch, ch 2, turn.

Row 9: Repeat last row, ch 1, turn.

Row 10: Sc in every dc and ch st across row, ch 1 at end of row, then turn and sc up the side of the back. When you reach the sc rows of the bodice, ch 1, (buttonhole made,) sc in the end next 2 sc rows, ch 1, (buttonhole made,) sc in top row, break off.

Reattach thread at the neck edge of opposite back side, ch 1, sc along side to bottom of skirt, working over the end threads. At the bottom of the row, ch 1 and join with a sl st to the skirt bottom.

Work in loose ends of the thread. Sew two 2.5 mm pearl beads to right side of the back, across from buttonholes.

This pattern is posted for your own enjoyment. You may share the link freely with your friends, but please do not post the pattern anywhere else without my express written permission. Thank you!

Summer Crochet for Sasha Baby

Earlier this summer, on the Ravelry "Sasha Friends" group, a few of us decided to do a Summer doll project. It could be anything we wanted, so long as it was for one of the Sasha dolls, and could be worn in the summer. I chose to crochet something for Sasha Baby. Although there are a number of people doing knitting patterns for the Sasha dolls, crochet patterns are a bit harder to come by, so I decided to try making one up myself. For inspiration, I looked through my patterns for real babies. I found a couple I liked that were worked from the neck down. I've done several lacy little doll dresses for the Tonner 10" Ann Estelle dolls that were worked that way, and I felt very comfortable with the style, so I decided to give it a try.

It came out rather well, and for once, I remembered to write the instructions down as I went along, so I'm sharing the pattern for those who might enjoy crocheting a dress or top for their Sasha Baby. Feel free to direct friends here to get the pattern, but please do not sell it! If you find a mistake in my directions, please let me know so that I can correct it, and keep in mind that I am not a professional designer! I will be adding a pattern for the diaper cover later, as it still has a few kinks that need to be worked out. For friends in the UK, please remember that here in the US we use different terms. Our double crochet is, I believe, your treble, and our single crochet is your double. (Or something like that!) Without further ado, here is the pattern:

Lacy Crocheted Summer Top or Dress for Sasha Baby

Materials: 1 ball #10 crochet cotton

#7 Steel crochet hook (1.5 mm)

Gauge is not critical, as the lacy fabric is pretty stretchy, and you can try the yoke on the doll for fit before you start the shells. Mine is 9 dc = 1" and there is about 5/8" from the center of one shell st to the center of the next one.

Shell St = (2dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same st

Picot St = (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch 2 space

Row 1- Ch 43, sc in 2^nd ch from hook and in each ch across, (42 sc) ch 3, turn

Row 2- Dc in next 2 sts, *(2dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts,) repeat from * 9 more times, dc in last 3 sts, (53 sts) ch 3, turn

Row 3- Dc in next 3 sts, *2dc in next st, 1dc in next 4 sts,) repeat from * 9 more times, dc to end, (63 sts) ch 3, turn

Row 4- Repeat Row 3, (75 sts)

Row 5- Dc in bottom of ch 3 turning, (1/2 shell made,) *(skip next st, shell in next st,) repeat from * across, ending with 2 dc on top of ch 3 from last row, (35 shells, plus ½ shell at each end) ch 3, turn

Row 6- Dc in bottom of ch 3, shell in next 5 shells, ch 3, (forming underarm,) skip nine shells, shell in next 7 shells, ch 3, skip nine shells, shell in last 5 shells, 2dc on top of ch 3 from last row, ch 3, turn

Row 7- Dc in bottom of ch 3, shell in next 5 shells, dc in each of 3 underarm chs, shell in next 7 shells, dc in each of 3 underarm chs, shell in last 5 shells, 2 dc in top of ch 3 from last row, ch 3, turn

Row 8- Dc in bottom of ch 3, shell in next 5 shells, shell in center dc of underarm sts, shell in next 7 shell, shell in center dc of underarm sts, shell in next 5 shells, 2 dc in top of ch 3 from last row, ch 3, turn.

Row 9- Dc in bottom of ch 3, shell in each shell across, 2 dc in top of ch 3 from last row, ch 3, turn.

Row 10 and subsequent rows – Repeat row 9

Work a total of 13 rows for a top or 17 for a dress.

Edging: Attach thread at neck edge on Right hand side of dress back. With outside of dress facing you, work a row of sc down the back edge of the dress. When you reach the bottom corner, (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner st, (picot made,) then working across the bottom of the dress, *(sc in top of each dc of shell, picot in ch 2 space of shell,) repeat from * around to left corner of dress back, work picot in top of ½ shell, then turn and sc up the left back. When you reach the yoke, make a button hole at the bottom and another at the top neck edge, by working a sc, ch 2, sk a space, sc. Fasten off and work ends in. Sew tiny buttons to right back yoke under button holes