The dresses pictured above are two of the finished dresses that were made as table favors for the Sasha Festival. As always, this pattern is posted for your personal enjoyment. You may share the link wherever you'd like, but please don't post the pattern anywhere without my express written permission. Thanks!
Crocheted Dress Yoke
Charla McGuire Neal
© 2013
To fit a 16” to 17” Sasha doll
Materials:
Size 8 Hook
(1.5 mm)
#10 Crochet Cotton
About 30 inches of ¼ inch ribbon
Fabric to match crochet cotton (7 ½ inches by 28 inches)
3 very small buttons (about ¼ inch)
Chain 55
Row 1: Dc in 3rd
ch from hook and in next 5 ch sts for back yoke, *(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc in next
ch,) [corner shell made,] dc in next 13 chs for sleeve, repeat from * in next
ch st for 2nd corner shell, dc in next 11 sts for yoke front, repeat from * in
next ch st for 3rd corner shell,
dc in next 13 chs for second sleeve, repeat from * in next ch st for
last corner shell, dc in last 6 chs for back yoke, ch 4, turn.
Row 2: Note: you will be working a double crochet in every
other dc, with a ch 1 between them. (Fillet st)
Sk 1 dc, (ch 4 counts as first dc plus ch 1,) dc in 3rd
dc, *(ch 1 skip next dc, dc in next dc.) Repeat from * working to corner. When you reach the corner ch 2 space, you you should
have a dc in 1st dc of corner you worked in row 1. You will ch 1, sk 2nd dc of
row 1 corner, then work corner shell in ch 2 space. Continue from *, as
above, working to end, ch 3, turn.
Row 3: Work dc in each dc and ch 1 sp across back, work
corner shell in corner ch 2 space, work in fillet st across sleeve, work corner
shell in corner, work dc in each dc and ch 1 sp across front, work in fillet st
across sleeve, corner shell in corner, work dc in each dc and ch1 sp across
back, ch 3, turn.
Row 4 - 5: Continue as above, working dc st in every dc st
for backs and front, fillet st in sleeve sections, corner shell in ch 2 of each
corner shell.
Row 6: Work across back sts plus 1 dc in ch2 space of corner
shell, ch 8, sk all sleeve sts, work 1 dc in ch 2 sp of front corner, work all
dc sts across front, 1 dc in ch 2 sp of 2nd front corner, ch 8, sk
all sleeve sts, 1 dc in ch 2 sp of back corner, and every dc across back, ch 3,
turn.
Row 7 & 8: Dc in each st all around, including under arm
ch sts, ch 3, turn. At end of Row 8, ch 4, turn.
Row 9: Sk 1st dc, trc in 2nd st, *(ch
1, sk next dc, trc in 4th dc,) repeat from * across row, ending with
trc in top of turning ch, ch 1, turn. (You should have 43 trebles, including
the ch 4 turning at the beginning of the row.)
Row 10: Sc in each trc, and each ch 1 space across row, ch
3, turn.
Row 11: 1dc in bottom of turning ch, sc over top of next
trc, work 5dc shell over top of following trc, sc over top of next trc, and so
on, continuing across row. Finish with 2 dc in top of turning ch, ch 1, DO NOT
TURN…instead:
Work in sc, up side of left back to neck, ch 1 turn, and work back down as follows: Make 1 sc, ch 2, sk
2 sc, (ch 2 buttonhole made,) 8 sc, ch 2 buttonhole, 8 sc, ch 2 buttonhole, sc
to end of row, ch 1, turn. Work sc in every st up back, (including 2 scs in the
ch 2 buttonhole spaces,) to top. Ch 1 at corner, sc around neck, ch 1 at right
neck edge, sc down back to bottom edge, ch 1, turn and work back up to neck
edge. Break off and work in the ends.
Sleeves:
Note: You will be crocheting up and over the top of the
sleeve, back across the underarm to the beginning, then working shells over the
top of the sleeve to opposite side, where you will break off.
Row 1: With
right side facing you, attach thread to back corner of right sleeve, where the
fillet crochets meet the underarm dc’s.
(This would be the side of the row where you worked dc’s to underarm,
then did the 8 ch’s.) Sc in the side of the dc where the thread was attached,
hdc in the side of the next row, ch 1, and work fillet st in each fillet st
across sleeve. At bottom of row, hdc in side of dc row, sc in corner where
sleeve meets underarm sc’s, then sc in each sc of underarm, join.
Row 2: (Note:
You will only work the upper sleeve fillet sts in this row, not the underarm sc
sts.)
Ch 1, sc in top of sc, work 3 dc shell in top of hdc, sc in
top of next dc, 3 dc shell in next dc, across row, end with sc in corner sc,
between sleeve top and underarm, break off thread and work ends in.
Repeat with Left sleeve, attaching thread at front corner
instead of back corner, and proceeding as before.
Finishing: Press bodice.
Serge sides and bottom of skirt. Fold about ¼ in. of skirt
to wrong side, then gather top edge and pull up to fit bottom of bodice. I
serged my skirt top for neatness and to hold the gathering in place, but you
can finish it any way you prefer. Stitch skirt to bodice by machine or hand
stitch with matching thread, aligning top of gathers just below the row of treble crochet beading for the ribbon. Sew back seam, press, and finish back edge of
skirt. Fold up ¾ inch on bottom of skirt, press, and hem.
Sew three buttons to right back of bodice, matching position
of buttonholes. Run ribbon through beading and tie in a bow at back.
Please remember, I am not a professional pattern designer, nor am I a professional typist. I am the only one who has tested this pattern so far. If you find a mistake or a typo, please feel free to contact me, and do let me know how the pattern worked out for you.
For those in the UK, please bear in mind that there is a difference in terminology between the US and the UK. As I recall, our single crochet is your double crochet, our double crochet is your treble crochet, and our treble crochet is your double treble crochet. Our half double crochet is, of course, your half treble.
For those in the UK, please bear in mind that there is a difference in terminology between the US and the UK. As I recall, our single crochet is your double crochet, our double crochet is your treble crochet, and our treble crochet is your double treble crochet. Our half double crochet is, of course, your half treble.
